Finally, the big day was upon us, a little sooner than expected but after lot of hard work and toil. To say that we were all super excited and just raring to go, was a big understatement.
As with the other days, we wanted to start early to get the maximum ride time without the sun burning us, but it eventually it was inevitable. To add to this, some high-level guestimates indicated that we would riding above 17,000 ft when sun would be directly overhead, which, was not a very pleasant thought, but any day it was better to have the sun instead of rain or snow. So, without giving more attention to the factors that we couldn’t control or manage, we just focused on riding strong, take short breaks, re-fuel, hydrate well along the way.
Had a good and light breakfast to provide the required energy to the body and allow easy metabolic action in the rarefied air around us.
Our target was to start around 7:30 AM and everyone was ready to roll by this time and eventually around 7:45 AM we were flagged off amidst huge cheers and best wishes to summit.
Modus operandi for the day was simpler than the other days, there was no rolling, ONLY climbing, so continue to pedal at a sweet cadence and pace. Rest when needed and then continue.
Climb profile had indicated that first 15-16 kms, are not very steep and the last 10 kms, would have some high gradients at some places but not consistently.
High gradients at high altitude are generally not fun, but then what would one expect while trying to ride on the highest motorable road in the world.
Right at the start, in the valley on our right, there were huge slabs of ice, from the recent and not-so-recent snowfall and not getting fully melted, due to being in a shadow area. Very limited vegetation along with the rivulet giving us company and hardly any fauna, though with the day getting warmer, they were expected to make their presence.
So far I had done most of the ride on 3rd and 2nd gear, barring some time during the climb to Nurbula top, which was on 1st gear as well, since the gradient required it and also to test the gear in the terrain.
Here at the very beginning of the climb, when I switched to 1st gear, the chain dropped.
Oops!
Not much of an issue, but had to get off the saddle, get the hands a bit dirty and put the chain back on the chain ring. Took a little more than a few minutes to do it and consequently was left quite behind from rest of the group.
Very soon, was back on the saddle and started the climb again. Was being particularly cautious to not to get to 1-1 combination, since that was the LAST resort and it was too early in the day.
Climb continued, valley got deeper and deeper as the sun rose higher and each milestone denoting the distance to the top kept reducing.
At the first re-grouping / break point at about 10 kms from the start, there was something unexpected but very useful and energising waiting for us.
Who could expect these things in the most desolate and secluded places in the whole wide world.
But Indian Army hai toh mumkin hai !
Having a few of those sugary, crunchy and delectable jalebis, and some orange squash for that big sugar rush, continued to scale up. Slowly, steadily and surely.
Air was getting thinner, there was a need for higher than usual effort for every pedal, but it looked and continued to looked doable.
So “keep pedalling” remained the mantra.
At one point, caught up with skipper Sachin, we rode together for a short distance, he was riding on this massive cassette (Sudarshan chakra) on which one could possibly ride just any gradient. He was riding and climbing with ease and grace.
Somewhere further around 15-16 km milestone (from the start), at the next break and re-fuel point, caught up with Raj bhai, he was riding with so much determination that it was inspirational. He kept going smoothly and gently along those climbs and crazy gradients and I followed in tow.
We were now getting in the challenging zone.
Somewhere at a place where the gradients were quite high, passed a board mentioning that “You are now higher than Everest Base Camp”. Wow! That was quite something and definitely bolstered the spirits.
The top couldn’t be really far away.
I was now in the last 5 km zone to get to the top and was going reasonably strong, given everything but needed a bit of energy to replenish the current energy store. Stopped for a quick snickers bite and some water to drain it down, which is when I realised (once again and even more) that the air was really dry and it had dried up the entire palate (mostly because since I was breathing through the mouth as well, occasionally) and it was an effort to swallow the food.
Continuing further, saw a stone sign post, which was like boundless joy for the sore eyes. We were just 500 meters away from Umlingla top!!
At this point, one of the gypsy was parked and Vinu Sir, who had been clicking really nice photos for all of us was waiting as well… and inside the gypsy there was a jawan, waiting and resting up, since the last 40 minutes!!
Simply crazy!!
He was there 40 minutes earlier! Helmets off for his stamina, fitness and cycling prowess.
Vinu Sir suggested to wait and rest up while others reached. Idea was that all of us would ride together from here to Umlingla top. I told him that I’ll make a quick dash to the summit and return back.
This last part was mostly flat and seeing the summit so very close, just gave an energy boost and adrenaline rush to go off saddle and ride hard for the final stretch…and soon it was done.
Finally, I made it to the highest motor able pass in the world in about 4 hours 25 minutes (with 3 hrs 37 minutes of riding time), something that I had failed to do in my learning attempt.
Was quite relieved, more than anything else.
Hugged and thanked Rohan, Maj Trisham who were there to welcome us at the pass, got some quick photos and went back to the re-grouping point to join the rest of the group.
Soon few other riders joined us and shortly after Raj bhai came along and we had the same emotional roller coaster that both of us experienced at Nurbula top. It was a indeed a joyous and a very relieving moment for all of us.
In a short while, all the riders had reached, we were all lined up and ready to ride the last stretch and indeed, we did.
There was lot of cheering, clapping, hooting, hugging, high-fiving, celebrations as we reached the top of Umlingla – the highest motorable road in the world.
Such abundance of joy!!
Indian Army had planned for fabulous celebrations at the top with an Umlingla cake, roasted almonds, cashews and hot snacks…in our wildest of dreams we couldn’t have planned such an amazing celebration for an expedition finish.
We spent a good amount of time, congratulating, getting congratulated, taking pictures, getting clicked and generally loafing around. It was way more than 15-20 minutes generally recommended at the top of the mountain pass, particularly with this kind of altitude.
Finally, around 2 pm, we decided to start our descent. I had spent close to 2 hours at the top and perhaps I was not feeling much woozy due to adrenaline rush but had started to feel a bit lightheaded and wanted to get down before I became even lighterheaded.
The descend was short, mostly effortless and the gradients didn’t look all that daunting right now. What a big difference the direction of the bike and ride makes!
In about 50 minutes time, I was back at the unit and the expedition was now officially over.
Once all of us had reached the unit, we sat down for a nice outdoor lunch by the brook, hosted by Major Trisham.
If there was one thing that was consistent on all the days and all the time during this expedition, it was the warm, generous and amazing hospitality of the Indian Army. Starting from Leh to Umlingla, it was omnipresent, it was something that provided the focus to keep going without bothering about anything else.
Couldn’t help but thank Maj. Trisham, Capt. Ashray and Maj. Prashant (since we once again for all that they had done for us during the expedition. A LOT goes to them for making this expedition so successful and memorable.
We planned to get together in the evening for a nice celebration at Maj Trisham’s place and rest up till then. Alongside, had to get the bikes packed, which was going to be a tedious task and had to completed before sun-down.
We chatted, lazed around and got ready for the celebrations in the evening. To say that they were truly Jungle mein mangal would not be far fetching. Maj Trisham remained a wonderful and amazing host, with great food, soul stirring music (absolutely loved it) and some lovely cocktails to along, thanks to our star mixologist Rohan.
It was a day that would remain etched in our memories for years to come and was a perfect culmination of one of the finest expeditions that I have been or hope to be a part of.
The End.
Pedalling thru Life 